Four Trends. One Show. The Ingredient Launches to Watch at in-cosmetics Global 2026

With in-cosmetics Global 2026 opening in Paris next week, the direction of travel for beauty ingredients is apparent. Here, I take a look at the pre-show ingredient launches that are pointing to the direction for beauty formulation innovation.

Across exhibitor listings and pre-show reveals, four clear formulation themes are emerging:

• advanced peptides

• biotech collagen

• fermentation-derived actives

• multifunctional ingredients simplifying formulations

While many companies are holding back announcements, a number of launches and showcased innovations already provide a strong indication of what to expect ahead of the show doors opening.

𝐀𝐝𝐯𝐚𝐧𝐜𝐞𝐝 𝐩𝐞𝐩𝐭𝐢𝐝𝐞𝐬 𝐞𝐯𝐨𝐥𝐯𝐞 𝐢𝐧𝐭𝐨 𝐩𝐞𝐫𝐟𝐨𝐫𝐦𝐚𝐧𝐜𝐞 𝐬𝐲𝐬𝐭𝐞𝐦𝐬

DSM-Firmenich – BOND AID featuring OXY 229 CB

A formulation concept powered by a peptide complex, designed to support hair strength, repair, and fibre performance.

Peptides are no longer single-function actives, but part of broader systems delivering multiple benefits in one application, reflecting their growing importance in high-performance hair care.

𝐁𝐢𝐨𝐭𝐞𝐜𝐡-𝐝𝐫𝐢𝐯𝐞𝐧 𝐜𝐨𝐥𝐥𝐚𝐠𝐞𝐧 𝐩𝐚𝐭𝐡𝐰𝐚𝐲𝐬 𝐠𝐚𝐢𝐧 𝐦𝐨𝐦𝐞𝐧𝐭𝐮𝐦

Lucas Meyer Cosmetics – AlgaSurge

Following its debut at PCHi 2026, AlgaSurge is being brought to a wider global audience in Paris.

Designed to support pro-collagen I production using marine biotech, it reflects the shift towards activating the skin’s own regenerative processes.

𝐅𝐞𝐫𝐦𝐞𝐧𝐭𝐚𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧 𝐛𝐞𝐜𝐨𝐦𝐞𝐬 𝐚 𝐜𝐨𝐫𝐞 𝐢𝐧𝐧𝐨𝐯𝐚𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧 𝐩𝐥𝐚𝐭𝐟𝐨𝐫𝐦

Expanscience – OSMOLYA

A biotech-derived active designed to support the skin’s natural hydration balance.

It targets internal water regulation mechanisms, helping maintain moisture while supporting barrier function across skincare and haircare.

𝐌𝐮𝐥𝐭𝐢𝐟𝐮𝐧𝐜𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧𝐚𝐥 𝐢𝐧𝐠𝐫𝐞𝐝𝐢𝐞𝐧𝐭𝐬 𝐬𝐢𝐦𝐩𝐥𝐢𝐟𝐲 𝐟𝐨𝐫𝐦𝐮𝐥𝐚𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧

Advancion – ELEVANCE ELITE Bio65

A bio-based multifunctional ingredient combining neutralisation, stabilisation, and formulation support in one material.

It helps balance pH, improve emulsion stability, and enhance consistency across applications, supporting the shift towards simpler, high-performance formulations.